![]() ![]() Even gripping the base of a Copplestone ogre with strong pliers and a good solid grip, I was worried something would give and the mini would spike into the dirt like my first test mini did. The dip-grip-and-rip technique works best for 28mm plastics and gets less and less safe the larger and heavier the mini gets. Either way, it stains things, it's sticky, and the fumes are nasty. Get it on your hands and you better have some canola oil handy to clean up. This is not to say you can't get pretty minis, just that it's not designed for "pretty" but for "fast and effective." I just need strongly chip-resistant minis that look good on the tabletop. This stuff isn't for display figures, and I wouldn't use it for that. So I'm willing to plunk down extra money for the convenience and consistency of the Army Painter Quick shade but it's not cheap. I've done that in the past but mine always dries up, I can't keep the mix consistent from batch to batch, and I have issues storing it. It'll last a while but DIY painters who are willing to mix their own Magic Wash or vanish can save a lot of money. ![]() The stuff is expensive - I got my for less than 15% below list and it still cost me about $26 for a small can. No worries on the difficulty of maintaining identical results that can come with DIY mixing. It mixes easily, stays well, and you can get identical quality results from batch to batch. I've put silver edging on swords and brightened up gemstones post-dull coat and it worked just fine. The minis are easily dulled back down, and despite the heavy coating if you dull coat and then do touch-up painting, the new layer sticks. Then dull coat and you're good to go, with a tabletop quality mini. He's ready for flocking if I choose to, or I'll just touch up his base with some "flagstone" looking patterns, and he's ready for the tabletop. He's sealed nicely, he's got a dark tone and looks battlefield worn, and the details on the minis are revealed not obscured. ![]() My next experiment will use cheap clear coat, but for now I went with the "good stuff" as I was also sealing another mini that wasn't part of the experiment.Īs you can (probably) see, the shine is gone completely. Step Three: Dull Cote After 24 hours of drying, I took him outside and hit him with my Testors Model Master Dullcote. Notice his strong gloss tone at this point. This was much easier with a plastic model. Step Two: Dip I dipped the guy and whipped off the excess. I used a mix of Vallejo Colors, Reaper Pro Paints, and (mostly) Apple Barrel Colors.* I did no detail work here, I just painted within the lines. A quick base coat of black for his armor, maroon for his pants, crimson shirt, flesh tone, burnt umber boots, leather belt, brown and steel grey for his crossbow. ![]() Step One: Base Coat I took an assembled and grey-primed Warhammer crossbowman out of my collection (I think he's Empire Militia) and set to work. My apologies for the so-so pictures I have a camera for snap shots and I don't have a good miniature photographing setup. But I wanted to do one from scratch, deliberately going fast, to see just how easily I could paint cannon fodder type minis. They came out well, generally, good enough for tabletop use. You know, those minis that get 80% done and just sit there as you mull over how to wash and drybrush it best to bring out the colors, or why you debate the color scheme again, or where you just lost interest in the finishing process and want it done. I'd used it on a few minis I'd done detailed base coats on, but just couldn't seem to finish. I decided to try an experiment with my Army Painter Quick Shade. This is as much a review of Army Painter Quick Shade as it is a demonstration of me using it. ![]()
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